Hogmanay in Edinburgh: 12 stories to experience.

As New Year’s Eve approaches, I’m thinking about last year’s celebrations, which for me, were in Edinburgh. Apologies to Sydney and all the other big cities that compete for the most spectacular fireworks display, but the Scots started celebrating the last day of the year long before anyone else. There’s a feeling of tradition here that you just can’t get anywhere else in the world.

Here’s my pick of Edinburgh experiences – not limited to New Year’s Eve, but that were part of my Hogmanay experience and each has its own story to tell.

6451 Edinburgh Princes Street Gardens

  1. Princes Street Christmas Market

Edinburgh’s European Christmas Market actually runs for six weeks, from late November to the first week of January, and unlike some Christmas Markets (which now seem to have sprung up pretty much everywhere), these seem a bit more traditional. The market stalls sell mulled wine, German sausages and a range of arts and crafts.

7421 Edinburgh Christmas Market

There’s nothing quite like warming your hands on a cup of mulled wine! In nearby St Andrew Square the Scottish Market is also worth visiting to sample some fine Scottish food and craft beer.

6442 Edinburgh Walter Scott Monument

  1. Walter Scott Monument.

December is probably not the best time to visit this beautiful monument, because for the entire month, it’s surrounded by a fairground (and of course it’s usually cold and wet). However I have fond memories of being both claustrophobic and scared of heights while climbing it as a child. So it has to be done. An alternative to climbing in the rain would be to take a ride on the Ferris wheel that’s right next to it, for equally good views of Princes Street Gardens and the Mound beyond.

6662 Edinburgh Royal Mile

  1. The Royal Mile.

We were lucky enough to stay halfway along the Mile at Frasers Suites Edinburgh, opposite St Giles Cathedral so we got to spend lots of time exploring its nooks and crannies. There are plenty of places here to sample whiskey or invest in tartan, but I’m happy just to wander up and down the cobbled street gazing at the beautiful old buildings.

6761 Edinburgh Writers Museum

  1. Writers Museum.

Speaking of nooks and crannies, this little gem is hidden down a little close, leading off the Royal Mile, which opens up into a courtyard called Makars’ Court. The Scots word Makar means ‘ writer, author or one who fashions, constructs, produces, prepares’. The courtyard is paved with stones engraved with quotes by well-known Scottish writers, everyone from John Buchan, to Nigel Tranter and Muriel Spark. The museum itself is housed in Lady Stair’s House and celebrates the lives and works of Scotland’s finest scribes; Robert Burns, Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.

6486 Edinburgh Greyfriars Bobby

  1. Grey Friars Bobby.

Bobby is still standing on the corner of Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge, waiting for his long-dead master. These days he’s in danger of having his nose rubbed off by tourists eager for a bit of the supposed good luck this is said to bring.

6774 Edinburgh Greyfriars Bobby

Local authorities would like you to refrain by the way, they’ve already had to fix Bobby’s nose once and it’s not really a tradition. In true Scottish tradition however there are several versions of the story, the best-know version being that he belonged to a night watchman called John Gray, and when Gray died, the dog sat on his grave until he died himself 14 years later on 14 January 1872.

6733 Edinburgh elephant house

  1. The elephant house

A little further along George IV Bridge, this fine establishment serves (arguably) the best coffee in Edinburgh, however it’s more famous for its regular literary customers, which include JK Rowling, Alexander McCall-Smith and Ian Rankin. It’s now promoted as “The Birth place of Harry Potter” and has spawned a new Edinburgh tradition; that of writing a message of Harry Potter fandom on its toilet walls.

6740 Edinburgh Museum

  1. National Museum of Scotland.

A short walk from the elephant house, the National Museum of Scotland tells the story of Scotland from prehistory to present day. Rising up through the four storeys of the museum, the light-filled atrium of its Grand Gallery is one of Scotland’s most beautiful spaces, with soaring pillars and high windows. It’ll make you smile.

6737 Edinburgh Museum

  1. Grass Market

Take a sharp right turn off George IV Bridge and follow the road round to the Greater Grassmarket area, home to some of the oldest and most photographed streets in Edinburgh.

6769 Edinburgh Grassmarket

The shopfronts are painted bright colours that stand out against the sandstone buildings and there are great views up towards the castle. There are lots of great little cafes, bars, and pubs and great little bookshops, gift shops and boutiques to explore.

7402 Edinburgh Castle

  1. Edinburgh Castle

This majestic old structure is beautiful from all angles, and especially at night when it’s lit up. We followed a route up towards the castle starting at Princes Street Gardens, across The Mound and up the Royal Mile to take in the view from the top, on one side looking down on The Grassmarket, and the other to Princes Street Gardens.

6631 Edinburgh Castle

  1. Holyrood Palace

At the opposite end of the Royal Mile to the Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is of course the official residence of the Queen in Scotland, so it’s still in Royal use.

6721 Holyrood Palace

Apparently during Holyrood Week (in Summer) the Queen entertains upwards of 8,000 guests here in a series of garden parties and formal engagements, but she’s not here right now so we can wander around in peace.

6868 Edinburgh view from Arthurs Seat

  1. Arthurs Seat.

Just past Holyrood Palace you can start to wind your way up 250m in elevation to the top of Arthur’s Seat, the huge mound of a hill that overlooks the city and dwarves the castle.

6817 Edinburgh view from Arthurs Seat

Amazingly, the day we climbed it, was possibly the clearest day in winter, and our view took in the entire city and possibly the entire length (in each direction) of the Firth of Forth.

6871 Edinburgh view from Arthurs Seat

  1. The Meadows.

I’m ending my Edinburgh story here, partly because we walked through The Meadows so many times during our stay, and also because this is where we spent our New Year’s Eve celebrations.

6489 Edinburgh The Meadows

Avoiding the crowds at the huge street party in Princes Street Gardens (the headlining act at which was Lily Allen), we all attended our own little private parties before wandering down here at midnight to watch the fireworks display above Edinburgh Castle.

7326 Edinburgh Castle fireworks

For more information on Hogmanay in Edinburgh, visit This Is Edinburgh.

About Author

Deborah

Mother, travel blogger, social media diva, scuba girl and passionate eco-warrior, on a mission to remove plastic from my life. I also blog here about diving: www.diveplanitblog.com

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